2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Right Hand Drive Dual Battery Kit - Gen 3
Product Overview
Installation Guide
POWER HUB
Take a deeper look at the GEN 3 Power Hub
Bus Bars
Adding electrical accessories to your vehicle has never been easier! Devices connected to the bus bars run from the Aux battery and will not drain your cranking battery.
3 sizes of studs for connecting heavy wires like your winch, stereo amps, fuse boxes, etc. Connect smaller ring terminals to the small screws.
Boost Switch
- Auto - Connects the batteries automatically based on their voltage level
- On - Manually connects the batteries together just like jumper cables to help start the engine
- Off - Manually separates the batteries
G Screen Port
Plug in our optional G Screen Monitoring System with a single cable to keep an eye on your system.
SEE DETAILSHow It Works
The heart of the system is a smart battery combiner that handles connecting / disconnecting the batteries automatically.
When the engine starts, it allows the engine to charge the cranking battery first, then links the batteries together in parallel so they can both be charged by the alternator.
Once it sees the voltage drop below ~12.7v for a minute, it will separate the batteries. Your accessories connected to the bus bars continue to run from the second battery and won't drain your cranking battery.
The heavy duty Smart Battery Combiner device is rated to handle 300 amps continuously flowing through it. It can handle higher amperage loads for shorter durations - 500 amps for 5 minutes, and up to 2,000 amps for 5 seconds. The combiner requires a minimum of 8 volts to operate. It does not consume any power to keep the batteries connected together, and it does not generate any heat.
Matching Group 34 batteries are required. Note the Group 34R size has the posts in the wrong orientation. The factory battery is not compatible..
The Positive and Negative bus bars have 3 different size studs - - 3/8", 5/16", and 1/4" diameter for heavy cables for a winch, air compressor, fuse box, etc, and three #10 screws for attaching smaller ring terminals for your low amp accessories such as small LED lights.
Our battery cables are made with 2ga heavy duty, high strand count, pure copper welding cable. Why welding cable instead of battery cable? It's more flexible, more conductive, with a thicker, more abrasion resistant jacket for ultimate durability. The lugs are made of pure copper and tin plated which is more conductive and eliminates corrosion, then covered with an extra thick, adhesive-lined heat shrink material to fully seal the ends of the copper wire for long lasting performance.
If you're handy with a wrench, and if you follow along with our detailed installation video, most people can install this kit in their driveway in 2-3 hours. If you prefer to have your local 4x4 shop install it for you, most shops will bill 2 hours for installation in a stock vehicle. If you already have some aftermarket wiring that needs to be rerouted to our bus bars or otherwise cleaned up, add to the installation time as appropriate.
Get out there and explore.
INCLUDED IN THE BOX
GEN 3 POWER HUB
Pre-wired, heavy duty battery combiner that allows your engine's alternator to charge your cranking and accessory batteries.
STEEL BATTERY TRAY
CNC laser cut and bent for a perfect fit, then powder coated for durability.
HARDWARE
Includes everything you need for an easy installation.
G Screen
Monitoring System
An Optional add-on for your dual battery system to see the status of your batteries.
G Screen for Gen 3 Dual Battery Systems
Multi Size Ring Terminals
Need to wire up some accessories to your bus bars?
Add a pack of ring terminals from the options above.
These are much higher quality than the cheap ones at your auto parts store. Includes 4 pieces of 4 different sizes to match the studs on the bus bars.
FAQs
How long will it take to get my order?
Our products ship from our office in Olive Branch, MS, just outside of Memphis, TN. We work hard to keep everything in stock for same day shipping on most orders placed by 3pm Central time. Click here to see a map showing transit times by UPS Ground for the USA. You may select Expedited Shipping services on the checkout page if faster delivery is needed. Tracking information will be provided when we create your shipping label.
How can I hook up solar panels?
Most people want to use solar panels to be able to run their accessories for as long as possible with the engine off. You can connect the solar charge controller directly to our power and ground bus bars. The solar charge will go into your aux battery first to replace the power used by your accessories. As long as the panel is big enough to keep up with the demand and charge up the battery, then our smart isolator will link them together, and the solar will flow over to the cranking battery as well
How do I connect a charger to keep both batteries charged?
You can connect a charger to your factory positive wire on the cranking battery and the factory negative wire on the aux battery. This way the trickle charger works just like your alternator - it will charge the cranking battery first for a couple minutes, then the smart isolator links the batteries together to charge the aux battery as well.
I left my headlights/radio/dome lights turned on, and now the engine won't crank. I thought the system would turn off the cranking battery to protect it from getting too low.
The factory positive wire harness feeds power directly to your fuse box, which means all of the factory circuits are powered from your cranking battery. The isolator does not turn off power to the fuse box. It 'isolates' the 2 batteries from each other, to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories that you have wired up to the bus bars. If you accidentally drain your cranking battery, that's when you'd use the boost button to jump start yourself from the second battery.
My factory post clamps won't get tight enough on the battery post. It is loose and causing weird electrical issues.
Most factory battery post clamps are made of light duty stamped sheetmetal, and stretch or wear out over time. First, make sure the post clamp is fully seated all the way to the bottom of the battery post. Try loosing up the post clamp nut so it is very loose, then use a large socket and gently tap the clamp down onto the post. Now tighten the clamp nut and see if it is secure. You can also try using a battery post shim, available from your local auto parts store, to fill the gap between the clamp and the post, allowing the clamp to tighten down more securely.
Do I need an sPOD, or is it unnecessary since the kit has the power and ground bus bars for hooking up my accessories?
The sPOD system from www.4x4spod.com is a great compliment to our dual battery system. It allows you to easy add electrical accessories that need a fuse, relay, and a switch. It does have limitations, however, with the amount of current that can be used through any one switch. For example, you can't control a winch with it due to the very high amp draw for the winch. Our bus bars are perfect for connecting accessories that need direct battery power, or for those that come with a wire harness that includes a fuse, relay, and switch.
How do I connect an sPOD system to the dual battery kit?
The sPOD source unit should be connected directly to our power and ground bus bars. This way, anything that you are controlling through the sPOD will get power from the aux battery, and will not drain down your cranking battery.
Do you ship overseas?
Yes, we ship all over the world. We have customers in over 40 countries! Shipping costs will be calculated before you checkout.
Will this cause any error codes or dash lights?
The Jeep ESS system looks for a voltage difference between the main battery and the small auxilliary battery to determine whether the Start/Stop system is functioning correctly. Since our system does away with the auxilliary battery, that voltage difference doesn't exist. So, after 6 ESS events, the feature is disabled and will show a warning to service the stop/start system. This is of course a redundant warning since it is predictable and explained by the elimination of the small auxilliary battery. That cycle resets each time the vehicle is turned off and back on. The minimal drain from the few seconds spent at a stoplight is quickly replaced by the alternator while driving
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