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This is the most complete and easiest to install dual battery system for the JK Wrangler.
This kit is specifically for right hand drive Jeep JKs. It includes all the same great features as the American version.
- Completely pre-wired out of the box
- Fits 3.8L, 3.6L, Hemi 5.7L & 6.4L, and LS gas engines. Does NOT fit right hand drive DIESEL engine JKs.
- Boost switch included - jump start your vehicle off your second battery
- Power & Ground bus bars make it easy to connect accessories
- Smart Isolator automatically handles all charging functions
- NEW FEATURE! Interface port pre-wired for the G Screen monitoring system
- Integrated fuse box holder and evap solenoid holder
- Best quality wires, soldered and crimped connectors, sealed heat shrink tubing
- Powder coated for durability
- Proudly made in the USA
- International shipping is available via USPS or UPS
The top cover plate has several innovative features in a simple package. All of the wiring has already been done for you, and the smart isolator comes pre-installed. The welded gussets on top have holes with grommets to route the wires directly to the correct battery post, so there's no guess work involved to make the connections. Use the extra grommets for routing your own accessory wires cleanly and neatly to the power and ground bus bars. High quality battery terminal connectors are soldered and crimped to the flexible 2 gauge wire connecting the batteries together. With all the wiring integrated into the top plate, servicing your batteries has never been easier. Simply pull the terminals off the battery posts, remove the 4 easily accessible stainless fasteners securing the lid, and all the wiring can be lifted up and out of the way to service your batteries when necessary.
The included smart isolator gives you automatic control of all the charging functions with no interaction required.
Here's how it works.
- When both your batteries are fully charged at 13.2 volts, they are automatically connected and are charged at the same time.
- When you park and turn off the engine, but continue to use accessories such as lights or the stereo or a CB, both batteries begin to drain down.
- When your main cranking battery reaches 12.7 volts, the smart isolator separates the batteries, so that your cranking battery will have enough power to start the engine. The second battery continues to power your accessories for as long as it will last.
- After you crank the vehicle, your main cranking battery will be charged up to 13. 2 volts first, and then the isolator will begin charging your accessory battery. By only charging one battery at a time, your alternator is protected from excessive strain.
What if your cranking battery is somehow drained down too low to be able to start the vehicle? We have a solution for that.
- Press the Start Boost button and the isolator will connect both batteries together for 1 minute, acting like built-in jumper cables to jump start your engine off your accessory battery.
- As long as the combined voltage of the 2 batteries is at least 12.7 volts, you'll be able to start your vehicle instead of being stranded with a dead battery!
- The alternator will charge both batteries for 1 minute, then switches back over to automatic mode to reduce the strain on your alternator.
Also includes high amp power AND ground bus bars. The bus bars are already pre-wired to the accessory battery. Now you can quickly and easily connect your winch, lights, amplifiers, and lots more while keeping the wiring neat and orderly. Your winch or other high-amp accessories go onto the large center post on the bus bars, and all your other accessories go directly to the smaller screw terminals on the bus bars.
Battery Options:
- Any Group 34 battery will fit our tray
- We do not ship batteries to international customers. You'll need to source the batteries locally.
- Optima Red Top is a good engine starting battery, but not recommended or warranted for use in deep cycle applications. 800 CCA, 50 Ah capacity, 100 minute reserve time
- Optima Yellow Top is a good high power, dual purpose engine start and deep cycle battery. 750 CCA, 55 Ah capacity, 120 minute reserve time
- Odyssey 34-PC1500T is for those who need the most capacity possible! 850 CCA, 68 Ah, and 135 minute reserve time
- The original factory battery will not fit due to its larger size
- Both batteries must be the same physical size for the top lid to securely hold them in place
Isolator Option:
Technically speaking, the isolator rating should match the alternator output rating. In real world application, the actual output of the alternator is much lower than the published rating, so the 85 amp isolator is plenty sufficient for most Jeep owners. Some Jeep owners like to do everything overkill just for peace of mind, so there's no downside to going with the upgraded version.
- Standard 85 amp - suitable for most general purpose uses, including Jeeps with a winch, lights, CB, etc.
- Upgraded 200 amp - highly recommended for Jeeps with multiple high amp draw accessories such as big stereo systems or lots of electrical components. Required if using an aftermarket high output alternator.
Optional G Screen Monitoring System
Need to keep a closer eye on your batteries? Check out our dual battery monitoring system - the G Screen.
- Voltage levels for each battery
- Remote status indicator
- Background color changes based on battery status
- Remote boost button
- Completely pre-wired for you!
- Multiple mounting options (A pillar, dash, or in an sPod over the rear view mirror)
- Order with your battery kit for free shipping
 
Already know you want one? Simply add it from the options above, or see more details on the G Screen product page first.
Featured Media:
- Shipping box size 21x15x12"
Shipping weight 22lbs
- The red light on top of my isolator stays on all the time. Is something wrong?
- The red LED light is a status indicator. On means the batteries are fully charged and they are connected together. Off means they are below 12.7v and the isolator has separated the batteries to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories.
- My isolator gets warm / hot / very hot. Is something wrong?
- It is perfectly normal for your isolator to get hot. It can get up to 140 degrees, even with the engine turned off, which is way too hot to touch with your hand, but not nearly hot enough to hurt anything around it. This is a normal characteristic of any electromechanical solenoid device.
- I left my headlights/radio/dome lights turned on, and now the engine won't crank. I thought the system would turn off the cranking battery to protect it from getting too low.
- The factory positive wire harness feeds power directly to your fuse box, which means all of the factory circuits are powered from your cranking battery. The isolator does not turn off power to the fuse box. It 'isolates' the 2 batteries from each other, to protect your cranking battery from being drained by your aftermarket accessories that you have wired up to the bus bars. If you accidentally drain your cranking battery, that's when you'd use the boost button to jump start yourself from the second battery.
- My factory post clamps won't get tight enough on the battery post. It is loose and causing weird electrical issues.
- The factory battery post clamps are made of light duty stamped sheetmetal, and are easy to damage. First, make sure the post clamp is fully seated all the way to the bottom of the battery post. Try loosing up the post clamp nut so it is very loose, then use a large socket and gently tap the clamp down onto the post. Now tighten the clamp nut and see if it is secure. You can also try using a battery post shim, available from your local auto parts store, to fill the gap between the clamp and the post, allowing the clamp to tighten down more securely.
- Do I need an sPOD, or is it unnecessary since the kit has the power and ground bus bars for hooking up my accessories?
- The sPOD system from www.4x4spod.com is a great compliment to our dual battery system. It allows you to easy add electrical accessories that need a fuse, relay, and a switch. It does have limitations, however, with the amount of current that can be used through any one switch. For example, you can't control a winch with it due to the very high amp draw for the winch. Our bus bars are perfect for connecting accessories that need direct battery power, or for those that come with a wire harness that includes a fuse, relay, and switch.
- How do I connect an sPOD system to the dual battery kit?
- The sPOD source unit should be connected directly to our power and ground bus bars. For the best connection, we recommend using a larger ring terminal on the positive lead so that it can be connected to the large center stud on the power bus bar. The sPOD's negative lead should fit the center stud on the negative bus bar.
- The sPOD is turning off my accessories. Did I hook it up incorrectly?
- The sPOD has a low voltage monitor that will automatically shut circuits down to avoid draining your battery too much. When adding an sPOD to our dual battery kit, we recommend you pull out the 2 amp fuse inside the Source box. It is the only 2 amp fuse you'll see when you remove the cover. This will disable its low voltage cutoff system. Since you have 2 batteries, and since our smart isolator will already protect your cranking battery from getting drained, you probably don't care if your accessory battery gets drained down all the way. That's why you have 2 batteries in the first place!
- Is it ok to use my favorite brand of batteries, or are the Optima and Odyssey batteries the only choice?
- Any Group 34 battery will work in our tray. That refers to the physical size of the battery. We offer Optima and Odyssey batteries through our website as a convenience for people who want to have everything delivered to their doorstep, rather than having to go to the store to buy them and pay sales tax, and have to carry 2 heavy batteries home to be installed.
- Do you ship to international customers?
- Absolutely! International shipping is no problem.
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Fitment Info
- Fits all right hand drive gas engine Jeep JKs, 2007 - present
Engine compatability:
- 07-11 3.8L
- 12-15 3.6L
- Hemi engines - 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.4L
- LS engines including the new LS3
- Does not fit the RHD Diesel engine
Power add-on compatibility
- RIPP Supercharger
- Prodigy Performance Turbo
- Magnuson Supercharger
- Sprintex Supercharger
Snorkel compatibility:
- AEV
- Rugged Ridge
- Volant
- ARB
- Not compatible with the River Raider cowl snorkel
Works with aftermarket air intake systems that use the factory air box space.
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